Today, we’re exploring one of the most iconic models ever crafted: the Rolex Submariner. This timepiece has an illustrious history, defining features, a roster of celebrity wearers, and a high standing among Rolex collectors. Join us as we take a deep dive into the history and significance of this legendary timepiece.
The Birth of the Rolex Submariner
The Rolex Submariner was first introduced in 1953 and officially launched in 1954 at the Basel Watch Fair. It was initially developed to meet the needs of professional divers and soon became a benchmark in the world of dive watches. Its creation was the brainchild of René-Paul Jeanneret, a Rolex Board of Directors member, who was an amateur diver and saw the potential for a reliable underwater timepiece.
Rolex’s founder, Hans Wilsdorf, was also committed to creating a watch that could withstand the rigours of underwater exploration. Rolex was already known for innovations in waterproof technology, having introduced the “Oyster” case in 1926 — a groundbreaking development that protected watches from the damaging effects of water and dust.
Defining Features of the Rolex Submariner
What sets the Rolex Submariner apart are its numerous defining features, which have evolved over the years. Each iteration improves on its predecessor while maintaining the watch’s iconic look and superior functionality.
Waterproof Ability
One of the primary features of the Rolex Submariner is its exceptional waterproof ability. The original Submariner models were water-resistant up to 100 metres (330 feet). However, as technology advanced, so did the watch’s capabilities. Modern Submariner models are typically water-resistant up to 300 metres (1,000 feet), making them perfect for professional divers and recreational underwater enthusiasts. This remarkable water resistance is achieved by combining the Oyster case, Triplock crown seal, and robust construction.
Unidirectional Rotatable Bezel
The Submariner’s unidirectional rotatable bezel is essential for divers. It allows them to track their dive time accurately, preventing any accidental rotation that could lead to misleading readings. The bezel is marked with 60-minute graduations, which are easy to read even in the dim light underwater, thanks to the luminescent capsule at the zero marker.
Luminescent Markers
Visibility underwater is crucial, and the Rolex Submariner excels in this area with its luminescent markers and hands. Early models featured radium paint, later transitioning to tritium, and currently use Chromalight. This material emits a long-lasting blue glow, ensuring that the time is always readable, whether you’re diving in dark waters or strolling through a dimly lit room.
Robust Materials
The Submariner is built to endure the most challenging conditions. Early models were crafted from high-quality stainless steel, and the range has since expanded to include versions made from Rolex’s proprietary 904L Oystersteel, as well as luxurious options in gold and two-tone configurations. The scratch-resistant sapphire crystal protects the dial, while the patented Oysterlock clasp on the bracelet ensures the watch stays securely on the wrist.
Rolex Submariner: An Evolution Through the Decades
Over its long history, the Rolex Submariner has seen numerous upgrades and changes. While the core principles of the design have remained constant, the technology and aesthetics have continued to evolve.
1950s: The Birth of a Legend
The first Submariner, the reference 6204, was presented in 1953, followed closely by other models like the references 6205 and 6200. These early versions featured a smaller case, a rotating bezel without minute markers and were rated to 100 metres of water resistance. The iconic Mercedes hands, featuring a distinctive hour hand with a larger, circular tip, were introduced in this decade.
1960s: Technological Advancements
Substantial improvements were made in the 1960s, such as the introduction of the reference 5513 and 5512 models. These iterations included an improved calibre 1530 movement and increased water resistance. In 1967, the date function was added, giving birth to the Submariner Date, which featured the now-famous Cyclops lens for better legibility.
1970s: Enhancements in Design and Functionality
The 1970s brought the reference 1680, the first Submariner to feature a date complication. This model also saw the introduction of white gold markers and enhanced water resistance. Another significant model, the reference 16610, debuted in 1979. It incorporated the calibre 3035 movement, which allowed for the quickset date feature.
1980s and 1990s: Refinement and Luxury
The 1980s and 1990s were periods of refinement for the Submariner. The reference 16610 continued to evolve, with minor design tweaks and enhancements. These changes included improved luminous material and a shift to the calibre 3135 movement, which offered greater accuracy and reliability. The 1990s also saw the introduction of luxurious two-tone models and solid gold versions, expanding the Submariner’s appeal beyond professional divers to a broader, more upscale audience.
2000s to Present: Modern Innovations
In the 2000s, the Submariner continued to innovate while retaining its classic design. Notable models include the reference 116610LN, introduced in 2010, which featured the ceramic (Cerachrom) bezel insert, offering enhanced scratch resistance and aesthetics. The introduction of the Superlative Chronometer certification ensured even tighter accuracy standards.
Rolex Submariner: Celebrity Endorsements and Appearances
The Rolex Submariner has become a cultural icon, gracing the wrists of many celebrities, athletes, and notable figures, further cementing its status as a luxury symbol.
Sean Connery as James Bond
One of the most famous associations is with James Bond. Sean Connery sported a Submariner in several films, including “Dr. No,” “Goldfinger,” and “Thunderball.” This association with the suave and sophisticated secret agent significantly boosted the Submariner’s allure and popularity.
Steve McQueen: The King of Cool
Steve McQueen, known as the “King of Cool,” frequently wore a Submariner on and off-screen. His rugged charm and adventurous spirit perfectly embodied the watch’s ethos, further enhancing its reputation as the timepiece for those with a daring edge.
Other Notable Wearers
Over the decades, numerous other celebrities have been spotted wearing the Rolex Submariner. These include Johnny Depp, Robert Redford, and Harrison Ford.
Rolex Submariner: Popularity Among Collectors
Rolex collectors hold the Submariner in high regard due to its rich history, robust design, and continuous innovations. Here are a few reasons why the Submariner is a favourite among collectors:
Historical Significance
The Submariner holds a unique place in horological history, being one of the pioneering dive watches that set the standard for the industry. Its association with iconic figures and its presence in major cultural moments add to its allure and collectability.
Versatility
The Submariner’s design is timeless and versatile, making it suitable for various occasions, from professional settings to casual outings and even formal events. This versatility makes it a practical addition to any watch collection.
Investment Potential
Rolex watches, particularly the Submariner, are known to retain and even appreciate in value over time. Vintage models, limited editions, and well-preserved pieces can command high prices at auctions and in the secondary market, making the Submariner a sound investment for collectors.
Customisation and Variations
Rolex has produced a wide range of Submariner models, each with unique features and variations. From the classic no-date models to the luxurious gold and two-tone versions, there is a Submariner for every type of collector. Limited editions and rare variations, such as the “Kermit” (reference 16610LV) with its green bezel or the “Hulk” (reference 116610LV) with its green dial and bezel, are particularly sought after.
The Enduring Legacy of the Rolex Submariner
The Rolex Submariner is more than just a watch; it symbolises excellence, innovation, and timeless style. Its history, defining features, and association with iconic figures have elevated it to legendary status, making it one of the world’s most recognisable and cherished timepieces.
The Submariner has set the standard for dive watches for over six decades, continually evolving while preserving its core essence. Whether you are a professional diver, a watch enthusiast, or appreciate fine craftsmanship, the Rolex Submariner offers functionality, durability, and elegance.
At Kettle Club, we understand the passion and dedication that goes into collecting luxury watches. With its storied past and promising future, the Rolex Submariner remains a cornerstone of watchmaking excellence. If you are considering adding a Submariner to your collection or want to learn more about this iconic timepiece, get in touch or visit our showroom.
